Table of Contents
You know you’re a true ring lover when you start noticing the metal frames that hug a stone. It’s the sort of detail that either goes unnoticed or grabs your heart at first glance. Ages ago, a friend’s grandmother’s ring caught my eye—not because of the diamond, but because of the way the gold circled it like a halo. That’s when I got oddly obsessed with rubovers. In this post, let’s get real about rubover (bezel) engagement rings and wedding bands. Prepare for opinions, quirks, and maybe a (light-hearted) rant or two about chunky versus dainty frames.
TL;DR: Rubover setting is just another name for bezel setting—two terms for the same sleek, secure way of framing a gemstone with a rim of metal. Whether you call it bezel or rubover, this setting style blends beauty, protection, and timeless design. If you want a secure, stylish, and surprisingly versatile way to show off your stone, rubover (bezel) engagement rings and bands are well worth your attention. From sleek full rubovers to daring half rubovers, there’s a world beyond prongs—one that might just fit you perfectly.
What Actually Is a Rubover Setting? (And Why Should You Care?)
So, what’s a rubover setting? If you’re already eyeing rubover engagement rings, you probably know the basics. But let’s break it down for everyone else. In simple terms, a rubover—or bezel—setting is when your gemstone, be it a diamond, sapphire, or something a bit more offbeat, is surrounded by a continuous rim of metal. Think of it as a picture frame, only shinier and far more precious. This rim can be crafted from a range of precious metal options: yellow gold, white gold, rose gold, or platinum. The choice is yours, and each metal brings its own vibe and level of rubover setting durability.
Now, the rubover setting definition might sound a bit technical, but it’s really just about security and style. The metal frame encircles the stone, holding it firmly in place. Rubover settings can either fully wrap around the stone (full rubover) or only partially (half rubover). Full rubovers offer maximum rubover setting protection—perfect for anyone with an active lifestyle or a knack for knocking their ring against things. Half rubovers, on the other hand, let in more light, so your stone can really sparkle, but with a touch less protection.
Contrary to what some might think, rubover settings aren’t just for modern minimalists. They’re surprisingly versatile. Want something sleek and contemporary? Go for a smooth, polished rubover. Fancy a bit of vintage flair? Milgrain rubovers feature tiny beadwork along the edge, adding a delicate, antique touch. As one jeweller puts it,
"The marker of this engagement ring style is the rubover around the centre stone."
What’s more, rubover settings are a dream for anyone who wants a ring that’s easy to wear and maintain. There are no prongs to catch on jumpers or hair, and cleaning is a breeze—just a quick wipe and you’re done. Whether you’re after maximum stone protection, a unique look, or simply a fuss-free ring, rubover settings offer a blend of durability and style that’s hard to beat.
Rub Over Diamond Twist Torque Anillo 0.10ct G/SI calidad 9k oro amarillo
€326,95
Este anillo torque de diamantes está hecho a mano en oro amarillo de 9k. El oro amarillo de 9k tiene un sello de calidad del Reino Unido. Los dos diamantes de calidad G/SI tienen un peso total en quilates de… read more
Full Bezel vs. Half Bezel: The Proper Showdown
When it comes to rubover (bezel) engagement rings, there’s a bit of a fork in the road: do you go for full rubover settings or half rubover settings (sometimes called semi-rubover)? It’s a bit like choosing the perfect picture frame—do you want your masterpiece fully protected, or do you prefer a bit more breathing room for the art to shine?
Let’s start with full rubover settings. Here, the stone is completely wrapped in a band of metal. Think of it as a suit of armour for your gem. This isn’t just for show—research shows that full rubovers offer maximum durability, guarding your stone against chips, scratches, and even the odd mishap (my neighbour’s dog once tested this theory, unintentionally). If you’re someone who’s always on the go or just a bit accident-prone, a full rubover is a top pick. It’s sleek and modern and keeps your stone safe from life’s little surprises.
On the flip side, half rubover settings (or semi-rubover) only partially encase the stone. This means more of the gem is exposed, letting in extra light. The result? A noticeable rubover setting sparkle effect. You get more shimmer and brilliance, thanks to increased light exposure. Of course, there’s a trade-off—there’s a smidge less protection, so it’s not quite as bombproof as a full rubover. Still, if you love the idea of your stone catching every ray of light, a half rubover might be your style.
Full rubovers: Stone is fully wrapped in metal for ultimate protection (my neighbour’s dog has tested this, unintentionally).
Half (or semi) rubovers: Only part of the stone is encased, so there’s more light play but a smidge less armour.
Choice impacts both the look and practicality: sleek and safe from knocks, or airy with more shimmer?
"Some clients want a rubover border as thin and fine as possible because they want that accent, without overpowering the stone."
So, whether you’re after maximum protection or a boost in sparkle, the rubover setting you choose will shape both the look and the life of your ring.
Anillo de compromiso con solitario de diamante frotado certificado de 0,50 ct E/VS de oro blanco de 18 k
€1.741,95
Un anillo de compromiso atemporal que permanecerá en estilo durante muchos años. Con un magnífico diamante solitario en un engaste elegante y contemporáneo. El diamante completo pesa 0,50 quilates y el anillo está engastado en una hermosa banda de oro… read more
Design Choices: Do You Want Your Rubover Chunky, Dainty, or With a Dash of Drama?
When it comes to rubover engagement rings and rubover wedding bands, the world is your oyster. One of the first things people notice is the rubover ring width. Some love a super slim, almost invisible border—just a whisper of metal hugging the diamond. Others go bold, choosing a chunky rubover that makes a statement from across the room. The beauty of rubover setting styles is that you can tailor them to your taste, whether you’re after something minimalist or a bit more dramatic.
Colour is another big player. Rose gold, white gold, yellow gold, or platinum—each metal brings its personality to the table. Rose gold gives a romantic, vintage feel, while platinum is all about modern coolness and durability. The metal choice affects the ring's appearance, durability, and wear over time.
But the customisation doesn't stop there. Rubover-set diamonds can be framed in different ways: full rubover for maximum protection or half rubover if you want more light and sparkle. You can mix things up with shoulder designs, add diamonds to the band, or opt for a clean, unadorned look. Even the band itself can be a playground; single prong, shared prong, or a full rubover all create completely different vibes. As one expert puts it:
"Really try to figure out, okay, what’s the aesthetic that you want—the streamlined look."
Feeling a bit overwhelmed by all the rubover ring design consultation options? You’re not alone. That’s why virtual or in-store consultations are so helpful. Side-by-side comparisons let you see how a dainty rubover stacks up against a chunkier frame or how a yellow gold rubover wedding band compares to platinum. It’s all about finding your own style and what feels right on your hand. And honestly, trying on different designs, virtually or in person, is far less awkward than you might think.
In the end, rubover customisation is nearly endless. From frame style and width to metal colour and band details, you can create a ring that's truly yours. Whether you want a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it border or a dash of drama, the choice is entirely up to you.
Anillo al frotamiento de 0,65 quilates con diamantes amarillos de cojín Art Déco en oro amarillo de 18 k
€1.222,95
Agregar descripción… read more
But Will My Stone Still Sparkle? Busting the Biggest Rubover Myth
Let’s get right to the heart of it: if you’re eyeing rubover engagement rings, you’ve probably heard the big question—does that sleek metal rim dull the stone’s sparkle? It’s a worry that pops up time and again, and honestly, it’s easy to see why. The idea of a rubover setting, with its band of precious metal wrapping around the gem, might make you wonder if all that coverage means sacrificing shimmer for style.
Here’s the truth, straight from the experts: “Is it going to diminish the sparkle of the stone? Absolutely not.” The rubover setting metal rim does cover a bit more of the stone’s edge compared to prong settings, but research shows that the method doesn’t rob your diamond or gemstone of its brilliance. Instead, it simply changes how the light moves around and through the stone. The sparkle is still there—just framed in a way that’s modern, neat, and a little bit different.
For many, that’s exactly the appeal. The rubover sparkle effect isn’t about blinding flashes from every angle but rather a refined glow that feels both secure and sophisticated. The clean lines of a rubover engagement ring offer a look that’s as practical as it is stylish. You get lasting protection; no snagging, no worrying about chips—and a ring that stays looking tidy, even with everyday wear.
It’s also worth noting that rubover settings aren’t a one-size-fits-all affair. You can choose a full rubover for maximum protection, a half rubover for a touch more light, or even play with the width of the metal rim for a delicate accent or a bold frame. Whether you prefer yellow gold, rose gold, or platinum, there’s a rubover style to suit every taste and stone shape.
Therefore, if the distinctive appearance and enduring durability of rubover engagement rings appeal to you, you can feel confident. The sparkle remains vibrant, the style is distinctive, and the myth that rubovers dull your diamond is debunked. Consider it well and truly busted.
Anillo de compromiso con frotamiento de diamantes princesa certificado 0,30 ct G/SI Oro amarillo de 18 k
€845,95
Agregar descripción… read more
Inspired by the Look? Find Your Forever Frame
If rubover (bezel) settings speak to your style—secure, elegant, and effortlessly wearable—why not see how they come to life in our handcrafted designs?
At All Diamond, we specialise in natural diamond and gemstone jewellery, crafted exclusively in the UK. Our collection features a variety of rubover-set rings, pendants, and earrings—each piece designed to highlight the stone and protect it for a lifetime. And yes, every item comes with our lifetime workmanship guarantee.
Whether you’re drawn to classic minimalism or modern boldness, you’ll find a rubover that fits.
Explore our rubover-set rings →
